Wick's TOP 10 skin tips:

1) Coat a thin layer of Gold Label on them immediately after purchasing.  For cold dawn patrol Colorado starts....the "euro" glue just doesn't cut it!

2)Don't screw around with the tip applicators they give you.  Just buy the skins straight off the roll and make your own "bungee tip with plastic tip washer" for easy on/off (see pictures)

3) For racing purposes....end the skin about 6-8" before the actual end of the ski.  No tail fix needed!  This aides in glide, and you will still climb just fine!

4) Cut the skin with a skin tool cutter, leaving the skin "straight cut"...ie. don't make the skin fatter in the tip/tail where the ski gets fatter.  For example if the race ski is 63mm under foot, run with a straight cut 63mm skin

5) When in doubt ALWAYS go Mohair...and Euro Mohair!  Its lighter weight when compared to its heavier USA made mohair brothers

6) Iron in 2 or 3 layers of cold/hard wax into your skins for Winter skiing on traditional North facing pow ski touring (slightly warmer wax for Spring conditions).  This will make them more water resistant, and help with glide.

7) Ski the hell out of them (via DH skiing) to wear them down....they only get faster the longer you use them!  ...and yes they will still grip just fine!  Dare I say...improve your skinning technique.

8) For racing....get two pair immediately!!  You will always need a second pair during normal racing conditions.

9) Whether racing or dawn patrols....always carry them against your body to help keep the glue sticky!

10) Belt Sander technology....to only be used under adult rando supervision...contact Wick for more details.  This really helps when you know the ski tour is fairly mellow (i.e. Elk Mountain Grand Traverse).  Start with an old pair of skins that you don't really care about to learn on first.